The Queen’s Jewels – Queen’s Platinum Jubilee Tribute

On Queen Victoria’s death in 1901, the last official distinction between public and private jewels was recorded in a morocco leather-bound book, still used today, with updates and alterations, by Asprey & Garrard Crown Jeweller David Thomas. Queen Victoria’s list created a class of jewellery between the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London, which are indisputably state heritage, and the personal pieces.

Although Queen Mary subsequently added a few jewels, the Crown Jewellery, as designated by Queen Victoria, is a short list which includes the famous George IV state diadem with four crosses pattee and emblematic diamond roses, thistles and shamrocks; George II’s diamond fringe tiara; and Queen Victoria’s diamond collet necklace and earrings, so often worn on state occasions. But listed among the State pieces, is, confusingly, ‘Albert’s brooch’, although this was without question a personal gift.

The Victorian idea seemed to be to ensure that certain precious pieces remained in the family for ever to be worn by future Queens, just as the bow-knot tiara (part of Queen Mary’s legacy) was given to Diana, Princess of Wales, on her marriage but returned to Buckingham Palace on her death.

Necklace

One of the Queen’s favourite pieces on Queen Victoria’s list is the Golden Jubilee necklace – graduated diamond trefoils with pearl centres presented to Queen Victoria by the ‘Women of the British Empire’ in 1887. Crown Jewellery has often become attached to a particular royal personage, as shown by the Regal Indian tiara, made for Queen Victoria in 1853, its ‘unlucky’ opals re-set with rubies by Queen Alexandra in 1902 and now worn regularly by the Queen Mother. In the past, Queen Alexandra was also reluctant to give up the royal jewels after her husband’s death, but the Queen says of the ruby Crown Jewellery piece that she knows that ‘mummy will give it back one day’.

In the meantime, she decided to have a ruby tiara of her own made by Garrard in 1973. This is one of the rare examples of the Queen creating jewellery during her reign, and belies the claim of the courtiers that ‘Her Majesty is not really interested in jewellery’. A former crown jeweller has a vivid memory of the Queen sitting on the floor and playing with stones to explain her vision of this floral diadem.